Winter Panel

Construction Manual

Winter Panel
74 Glen Orne Drive
Brattleboro, VT 05301
802 254-3435 • 802 254-4999
sales@winterpanel.com

PREFACE

Methods of building have undergone a revolution. We began making stresskin panels in the 1970s in response to the energy crisis, primarily in response to a need in the timber-frame industry for an uninterrupted envelope of insulation to wrap around the frame itself. Timber-framers were the first to discover that the panels could be used as structural components, which led very quickly to the development of the stresskin panel structural home industry
Winter Panel has constantly remained at the cutting edge of the structural panel home market. We pioneered the use of computer-aided design to develop code that is sent directly to our panel precutting facility. Our homes are engineered for strength and efficiency, and manufactured in accordance with a strict policy of quality control and excellence. They feature extreme design flexibility, low energy use, minimal maintenance requirements, and excellent durability.
This Construction Manual is a step-by-step guide to the erection of our Winter Panel Home shells. The techniques presented here have been tested in the field on many houses. Should you run into any difficulties or have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact the company. Let us know if any details need clarification or revision. We want to make this publication as valuable as possible for you, from start to finish.

Copyright 1991, 1999 by Winter Panel

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted in whole or in part, without the written permission of Winter Panel. Revised June 11, 1997

Table of Contents

Purpose
Introduction
I. Important Information

II. Getting Started
   1. Foundation Design
   2. Structural Supports and Girders

III. First-Floor Deck
   l. Install Band Panels
   2. Set Spanning Joists
   3. Lay Subfloor
   4. Install Bottom Splines (First Floor Walls)

IV. Wall Panels – Assembly and Erection
   1. Door and Window Openings

V. Second-Floor Deck
   l. Installing Beam
   2. Installing Joists
   3. Installing Second Floor Deck
   4. Setting Bottom Spline for Upper Walls

VI. Installing Second-Story Wall Panels and Roof Beam
   1. Install Temporary Braces Between Roof Beams
   2. Install Custom-Cut Bottom Spline for Roof Panels
   3. Lifting Panels Onto the Roof
   4. Securing the First Roof Panel
   5. Installing Other Roof Panels
   6. Eave Details
   7. Gable End Overhang and Rake Details
   8. Roof Penetrations

VII. Fitting Windows and Doors

VIII. Finishing House Exterior

IX. Finishing House Interior

X. Plumbing and Wiring

XI. Cabinet Attachment

APPENDIX: Cutting and Routing Panels

Purpose of This Manual

This manual is designed to provide Winter Panel Home builders with the information required to erect and enclose a Winter Panel Home panel shell kit. Some guidelines on finishing the shell are also presented, but most finishing details are left to the discretion of the builder. This manual should be used as a reference for builders who have completed training by Winter Panel Home representatives. This manual assumes that the reader has a basic understanding of sound construction practices, including job site safety and the proper use of power tools. All techniques and systems covered in this manual have been tested and approved by the company.

Introduction

The overall design and construction of a Winter Panel home is illustrated in Figure 1. Structurewall panels provide a complete wall and roof shell. Wall panels are installed vertically from first floor deck to upper floor deck or roof. Wall panels are joined together with dual 5/8 x 3" plywood splines, and fully inset 2 x 4" splines are installed for strength at wall corners and at the top and bottom of each panel.

Figure 1. Breakaway Drawing of a Winter Panel Home. In the Winter Panel Home, structural stresskin panels provide both wall and roof systems, tied together by joists, flooring and interlocking panel joints. This manual presents information necessary to complete the erection and closing in of a Winter Panel Home.

The outside of first floor joists are insulated with special "band panels," minimizing the heat loss that usually occurs through the band joists. On the first floor, the joists (usually engineered "truss" joists) are supported on the sill with a band panel of the same depth forming the perimeter of the floor system. With upper floors, joists are hung from the top of wall panels. The subfloor in all levels usually extends all the way to the outside of the wall to tie floor, wall and roof assemblies together. Basement girders are usually pocketed into the foundation wall.
Laminated beams, structurally inset into wall panels, are used to carry roof or upper floor loads, with or without intermediate support from posts or interior structural walls (depending on spans and loads). Structurewall panels, connected with dual 5/8 x 3" splines, provide the roof and wall framing, insulation and sheathing. In the roof, they span either from ridge to eave, or to intermediate purlin supports, depending on roof dimensions and design loads.
The completed shell provides tremendous flexibility of interior layout because of the absence or small number of interior supports. Large open rooms, two-story cathedral ceilings and cantilevered balconies can easily be incorporated into a Winter Panel Home design.

I. IMPORTANT INFORMATION

Keep Panels Off the Ground and Dry

Panels should be kept at least 6" off the ground with blocking, and protected from rain until used. Space the blocking no more than 4' on center (o.c.) and make sure the ground is flat, so that panels will not twist. Some exposure to rain will not cause damage, but extended exposure will cause edge swell, requiring sanding for a smooth finish after installation. If the panels will remain at the site for more than a week or two before installation, they should be stacked in a barn or shed under cover.
Foam sealant should be kept from freezing and extreme heat.

Make Sure the Foundation Is Square and Level

Proper panel construction depends on the foundation being square and level to within very tight tolerances. If the foundation is out of square or not level, panel installation will be much more difficult. Refer to Section II for foundation tolerances. The foundation is your responsibility. Supplied foundation drawings are intended to show size and bearing points for the supplied house shell kit. Local codes and soil conditions may require additional engineering for compliance.

Follow Load and Span Limits Carefully

Load and span limits for Structurewall panels and other building components, such as engineered joists and laminated beams are given in the manufacturer's literature for those products. An Winter Panel Home will be fully engineered to satisfy all structural limits. Do not customize or change any part of a shell design without consulting a Winter Panel Home designer.

Splines Are Required on All Panel Joints

Two 5/8 x 3" splines are required at all joints between panels. 2 x 4" splines are used at point load distribution, and 4 x 4" splines may be used in some instances, as described later in this manual. Panel joints must be sealed with foam sealant during installation. Failure to install splines, or improper installation of splines will violate the structural continuity of the shell.
Panels for Winter Panel Homes are shipped with spline channels pre-routed. If on-site modifications are made, or if panels are found to be improperly routed, you will need to rout the panels with the proper power or hand tools as described in the Appendix. Inspect all panels as they are installed and make sure they are properly routed.

Follow Nail/Screw Specifications Carefully

Using the proper fasteners and spacings is very important with Winter Panel Homes. Table 1 provides a quick reference for nail and screw specifications with the most common applications. More complete information is provided throughout this guide.

TABLE 1 FASTENER SPECIFICATIONS
Application	Fastener Type	On-Center Spacing
Securing panels to 2 x 4" splines	8d nails or 2½" screws	8" from both sides
Securing panels to 5/8 x 3" splines	6d nails or 2" screws	6" from both sides
Securing bottom splines to sill and/or floor system	16d nails or 3" screws	6" in two offset rows
Securing corner spline to edge spline	16d nails	8"
Securing joist hangers to top splines or laminated beams	16d nails 1½" joist hanger nails	into edge of top plate into top of wall plate
Securing joist to joist hanger	6d nail each side	in pre-drilled holes for bottom flange
T&G floor decking to joists and top splines at perimeter	8d ring-shank nails or 2" screws	6" along edge 12" on intermediate joists

II. GETTING STARTED

1. Foundation Design

The outside of the foundation should be flush with the outer edge of the installed panels as shown in Figures 2 and 3 (so that the siding, which will be installed later, will extend out past the foundation slightly). With full basement and crawlspace applications, a pressure-treated sill should be anchored to the frost wall with foundation tie straps as indicated in the plans, typically 6' o.c. and 2' from all corners. The outer edge of the sill should be flush with the outside of the foundation if the foundation matches the building dimensions. If the foundation varies from the building dimensions, if corners are not square, or if the top of the frost wall is not level enough, you will need to correct for this when setting the sill plates. It is extremely important that you provide an accurate, level and square platform on which to set the precut structure.

Figure 2. Sill Detail. The outer edge of the wall panels should be flush with the outside of the concrete frost wall so that full support is provided. Secure the sill plate with foundation tie straps. Interior foundation insulation is generally recommended. If using exterior insulation, bevel the top edge as shown and cover joint with a beveled skirt board. Figure 2C shows how corners overlap.

Figure 3. Slab-on-Grade Sill Detail. A 2 x 6' pressure-treated sill can either be embedded into the concrete slab and secured with mud sill anchors, or ripped to 4½" (or width of the panel) and secured on top of the slab.

Interior insulation is generally recommended on frost walls. The insulation should either extend up to the sill, as shown in Figure 2A, or overlap the sill, extending to the bottom of the joists. The insulation can be installed before or after the erection of the building shell.
If using exterior foundation insulation, the top edge should be beveled at 45 degrees to the top of the sill as shown in Figure 2B. Nail the top edge of the insulation into the sill, protecting it with stucco or other material per insulation manufacturer's recommendations, and cover the joint with a pressure-treated skirt board, also beveled at 45 degrees. Install drip cap flashing above the skirt board and install siding over it, leaving a 1/8" – ¼" space between the bottom of the siding and the flashing to prevent rot. As shown in the illustration, the full width of the wall panels should be supported on the concrete frost wall.
With slab-on-grade foundations, there are several alternatives. A pressure-treated 2 x 6" sill can be embedded in the concrete, with the top flush with the top surface of the slab, as shown in Figure 3A. The sill should be secured to the foundation with mud sill anchors, such as those manufactured by Simpson Co., which are set into the wet concrete and provide a seat for the embedded sill.
A second alternative is to rip a 2 x 6" to 4½" (or the width of the panel) and secure it to the top of the slab, as shown in Figure 3B. With this detail, conventional foundation tie straps or mud sill anchors should be used. The inset to Figure 3B shows a Simpson Mudsill Anchor Singleside, which can also be used. The detail to be used must be established in advance of panel design, as it establishes panel height.
With slabs, insulation is generally installed on the inside of the frost wall as shown in Figure 3. If using exterior insulation, bevel it as shown in full basement application (see Figure 2B).
Use accepted foundation design practices in laying out and building the foundation. It is extremely important that the sill plate of the house exactly match the out-to-out dimensions of the shell, and that all corners be square. Foundation width and length should be within ¼" of the dimensions called for in the plans. Check the diagonal measurements for square as shown in Figure 4. The diagonal measurements should be within ½". The top level of the frost wall or slab shall not vary by more than ¼" in 10' along the wall. Slight variations in foundation dimensions can be dealt with when setting the sill, but variations outside of these tolerances will make panel installation significantly more difficult.
Slight inaccuracies in the foundation dimensions can be corrected when setting the sill. If the foundation is supposed to be 36' long, for example, but measures 36' ½", the sills can be held in ¼" from the outside of the foundation on each end, providing the exact dimension of 36'0", out-to-out. If the diagonals do not match exactly, some adjustment can be made when setting the sills. If the diagonal measurements are not given on the foundation or first floor plan, they can be calculated by using the formula a² + b² = c² as shown in Figure 4.

Figure 4. Checking Foundation Square. With rectangular foundations, the diagonal measurements should be identical. To determine if a corner is square, use the formula a²+ b² = c². Carefully measure and inspect the foundation before erecting the house.

If the foundation is not level, the sills should be shimmed to make them level. This step is important because the walls and floors rest on the sill and any discrepancies will carry through to the wall structure. In setting the sill at corners, the overlap should be opposite that indicated for the band panels, as shown in Figure 2C.
In areas where termite and ant damage is common, install a termite shield between the sill and foundation in accordance with locally accepted practices. As an added precaution, the ground around the house can be treated with insecticide by a licensed exterminator. Ask your local building official for information on accepted practices to protect against insect damage.
To seal against air infiltration under the sill, use a closed-cell foam sill sealer, and apply caulk between the termite shield (if any) and the sill.

2. Structural Supports and Girders

When the house design calls for interior supporting girts (to carry long joist spans, for example), concrete-filled 3½" structural steel columns are typically specified. These columns are set on reinforced concrete pads below the basement floor level (usually at the same elevation as the top of the footings). The pads should be poured at the same time the footings are poured before the first floor slab. Refer to the plans for the exact location and dimension of these pads. Pads should be reinforced in accordance with commonly accepted practices.
Basement girders are usually installed into beam pockets in the foundation wall. Make sure the beam pockets are not neglected when forming for the walls. If the joists will rest on top of the girder, the beam pockets should be planned so that the top of the girder will be even with the top of the sills as shown in Figure 5. The most common practice is to set the beam pocket exactly as deep as the girder and install a short section of pressure-treated 2 x 4" in the bottom of the beam pocket (this is the same thickness as the sill and will bring the top of the girder up to be even with the top of the sill). The beam pocket should be sized ½" larger on each side and at the end to prevent direct contact of the girder with the foundation.

Figure 5. Beam Pocket in Foundation Wall. Basement girders are set into beam pockets in the foundation wall. Allow ½" on each side of the girder and at the end. Size the pocket the exact depth of the girder and install a short section of pressure-treated lumber in the bottom of the pocket. This will protect the bottom of the beam and bring the top level up even with the top of the sill.

When installing the beam, allow ½" at each end for air circulation. Set the beam in place, then run a string along the side of the beam at the bottom to determine the length needed for any supporting columns. By measuring from the string, any sagging of the beam will not throw off the floor level. Cut the steel column slightly long (about 1/8") to account for settling. Also, check to make sure the basement order is straight. If not, straighten it and brace it in place. The braces will help to hold it in place until joists are installed.

III. FIRST-FLOOR DECK

The first floor deck is laid on joists (usually engineered "truss" joists), which span from sill to sill or to basement girder. Special "band panels" are used to tie the joists together rather than conventional band joists. The band panels provide the same insulation value as the wall system. Band panels are installed around the whole sill perimeter. Spanning joists should be nailed into the sill with two 16d nails at each end (one on each side of the web).

1. Install Band Panels

Band panels are sections of Structurewall panel that are the same depth as the joists used for the first floor deck (9½", 11 7/8", etc.). Assuming the sill plate is level and square, and it matches the outside dimensions of the building, the band panels can be set directly in line with the outer edge of the treated sill plate. Use the framing plan to properly position the band panels. Usually band panels are installed before the joists, but in some cases, joists will be installed first. There you will need to allow space for the thickness of the band panels in setting the joists. When installing the band panel, you need to seal butt joints with expanding foam sealant and reinforce any overlapping corner joints with adhesive (see Figure 6).

Figure 6. Band Panels. Band panels are set on the outside edge of the sill around the whole perimeter of the building. Overlap band panels on sills as called for in plans.

2. Set Spanning Joists

All joists should arrive at the building site precut to the exact dimension required. Check the dimensions. If the joists are not cut to the correct length as shown in the cutting list (this may be a fraction of an inch less than shown on the framing plan drawings), cut to correct length with a circular saw. Laminated beams and joists will expand with moisture, so keep them dry. Lay out joists as specified in the plans. Take note of where measurements for o.c. spacing of joists should begin. Nail through the band panels into the spanning joist top chord with 16d nails, as shown in Figure 6. Each spanning joist should be nailed into the sill with two 16d nails at each end (one on each side of the web).
Joists also need to be nailed into any spanning girder they rest on. Before nailing joists into a basement girder, check to make sure the girder is straight and level. Straighten and brace it as necessary. Nail joists into girders with two 16d nails (one on each side of the web). Install joist blocking above the girders if specified in the plans. With engineered joists, follow manufacturer's specifications for bracing requirements. When using hangers off a basement girder, be sure to follow the hanger manufacturer's nailing schedule. Use two 6d nails to connect the joist hanger into the bottom flange of the joist (one on each side). The joist hanger must be pushed up against the girder before installing these nails.
Double or triple joists are used at stairway penetrations or as joist headers when the joists change direction Multiple joists should be glued and nailed together 12" o.c. at both top and bottom using 164 nails (with engineered joists, follow manufacturer's recommendations). Typical floor framing is shown in Figure 7.

Figure 7. Floor Framing with Engineered Joists. Follow plans carefully relative to joist spacing. Double and triple joists should be glued and nailed together as per specifications.

Use a great deal of care when working with engineered joist products. While they have considerable strength when loaded from the top, they have very little lateral strength. Do not stand or walk on engineered joists until they have been adequately braced or sheathed with subflooring. Use care when picking up long engineered joints; if they are not on edge when picked up, they can break.

3. Lay Subfloor

Lay a ¾" tongue-and-groove subfloor on top of the joists. The subfloor should extend out to the edge of the panel band joist. Run 4 x 8' sheets perpendicular to the joists, as shown in Figure 8, starting from the point indicated on the subfloor layout plan. Apply a bead of construction adhesive on each joist and top of band panels, and nail the subflooring on with 8d nails or 2" screws 6" o.c. along edges and 12" o.c. along intermediate joists. The two rows of fasteners at butt joints over a single joist must be staggered (see Figure 8). It is important that the subfloor be nailed down before the adhesive starts to set up (follow manufacturer's recommendations).

Figure 8. Installing Subflooring. 0ffset 4 x 8' sheets of subflooring and secure with construction adhesive and nails or screws.

4. Install Bottom Splines (First Floor Walls)

Once the floor deck is on, 2 x 4" bottom splines (bottom plates) are secured around the full perimeter. The splines should be secured to the deck and band panel around the perimeter, setting the outer edge of the spline ½" in from the edge of the deck so that the outer surface of the wall panels will be flush with the deck and band panel.
Use a scrap of ½" wood as a gauge when you position the 2 x 4"s. A bead of adhesive under the bottom spline is required. Foam adhesive tape should be used under all splines. Use 16d nails, spaced 6" o.c. in two staggered rows, to secure the bottom spline to the sill as shown in Figure 9.

Figure 9. Securing Bottom Splines to Sill. 2 x 4" bottom splines are secured so that the wall panels will fit over them and be snug against the deck. Caulk underneath the bottom splines to ensure a tight seal.

Corner lapping of the 2 x 4" bottom splines must be done in the same manner as the wall panels that fit over them (see panel elevation key plan). The shorter spline must be held back ½" from meeting the longer spline to allow the side wall inner skin to be set into the corner. (see Figure 9). Set the longer splines first (those extending all the way to the corner). Try to set butt splices in this bottom spline so that they do not coincide with panel splices. Do not set shorter bottom splines until the longer walls have been tilted in place. This allows a flat platform for assembling the longer panels. Generally, panels are joined together on the deck, then tilted up into position onto the bottom spline that has been installed shortly before erection. The two long walls are erected first, followed by the end (gable) walls.

IV. WALL PANELS — ASSEMBLY AND ERECTION

The Structurewall panels as delivered need to be assembled into wall elevations as shown in the panel cut-out drawings.
To start panel installation, organize the panels for the first long wall, whose bottom spline has been attached to the deck/band panel. Lay the panels flat on the deck, outer skin up, to match the panel drawings as shown in Figure 10. Leave a 1" gap between panels. The inner panel surfaces will be down. Set the panel bottoms against the attached spline to help align the panels. Insert the bottom 5/8 x 3" splines at panel seams, making sure not to intrude into 1½" rout at top and bottom of panel, place a continuous bead of expanding foam sealant into the foaming groove between the spline routs, inset the upper 5/8 x 3" splines, and slide panels together. You may also set panels together, and then slide splines in from top.

Figure 10. Panel layout for First Wall. Lay panels out on deck. Join panels before tilting wall up into position on bottom spline.

Panel joints are usually made with dual 5/8 x 3" plywood splines as described above and shown in Figure 11. To prevent moisture migration through the wall, the joint must be sealed with expanding foam sealant. A specialized foaming groove has been routed into each panel edge to hold this bead of sealant. The bead of foam is injected into the foaming groove after the panels have been nailed together through 3/8" holes into the joint approximately 1 foot apart and the curing foam then expands into the groove to seal the panels together. All panel seams must be joined with foam in this manner.

Figure 11. Dual Plywood Spline Joint. Dual plywood splines are commonly used to join panels. To assure a tight seal without risk of moisture migration, inject a bead of foam sealant into the foaming groove of the panels after joining panels.

In some situations, the plans will call for stronger spline joints between panels, as shown in Figure 12. Full-width routs are made in panels to the required depth for 2 x 4" or dual 2 x 4" splines. Embed these splines into routed grooves with foam sealant just before pulling panels together, and secure with 8d nails, as shown. Refer to Figure 12 for caulk and adhesive requirements.

Figure 12. Spline Joints. Stronger 2 x 4" or double 2 x 4" splines may be called for in certain situations where greater load-bearing capacity is required at panel joints.

With truck straps and come-alongs (or equivalent apparatus, pull the wall assembly tightly together and install top and edge splines. Top spline joints should be staggered so that they offset panel seams. The 2 x 4" edge splines should run from bottom rout to the top spline. Apply a bead of foam sealant into the rout for both top and edge splines before insetting splines. Nail outer skin along seam splines and top of outer skin to installed top spline per nailing schedule (6d at 6" o.c. typical), and then tilt up wall. Brace wall as required to keep it straight and plumb. Brace end of walls on the outside edge as shown in Figure 13. This allows room on deck for assembly of gable end walls and provides a stop in tilting up these panels. With the panel in position, plumb and straight, nail off the inner seams and along top spline (6d at 6" o.c. typical).

Figure 13. Bracing Wall Ends. Brace end of walls as shown. This frees up floor space for assembly of next wall into the corner and also provides a stop to aid in setting the panel.

Once the first long wall is up and braced in position install the bottom spline for the opposite long wall, then lay out the panels, join them and raise the wall into position in exactly the same manner. The end walls are also joined on the deck and raised into place as entire walls, but the tight spacing between long walls makes the erection a little difficult. First, secure 2 x 4" bottom splines to the deck/hand panel. Install the edge splines in the end panels, then lay out the panels against the bottom spline for alignment. The last panel will be quite tight, but you should be able to force it in. After all panels are in place on the deck, slide in the top inner and outer plywood splines from the top wall (toward the center of the house), as shown in Figure 14. Then nail off the outer splines (top side of wall) and install the top spline, foaming the routed groove first. Next, apply two beads of adhesive along the waferboard edges of the long wall where the edge splines will contact it, and raise the end wall into place. As you raise the wall, you may need to release the brace holding the long wall(s) plumb to make room for the end wall and minimize the scraping off of adhesive.

Figure 14. Inserting Splines into End Wall. Install plywood splines into end wall after panels have been foamed and laid out in position.

After getting the end wall into place, nail off the inner splines and nail through the corners into the edge splines with 6" galvanized twist nails, as shown in Figure 15. Use the same procedure for the opposite end wall.

Figure 15. Nailing Panels Together at Corners. Nail through the long wall corner panel with 6" galvanized twist nails into the edge spline of the end wall.

1. Door and Window Openings

Panels should arrive from the factory precut and routed for window and door openings. The routed grooves should be 1½" deep so that 2 x 4"s can be fully inset around the whole window or door perimeter (Figure 16). This technique is used both when the opening is all the way within one panel and when the opening extends into adjoining panels. The rough openings for some windows will have perimeter splines factory installed when the panels arrive.

Figure 16. Rough Opening for Window. The perimeters of window openings are routed out 1½" and 2 x 4"s installed. The sill and header should overlap side members, as shown.

With all rough openings for windows and doors, the sills and headers should overlap the side members as shown in Figure 16. This helps distribute the load carried by the header. The waferboard should be secured to the framing around rough openings from both sides with 8d nails or 2" screws spaced every 8".
Very wide windows and double or sliding glass doors may span more than a full panel. In this case, the plans may call for a more substantial header over the window or door, inset into the adjacent panels. Either a box beam, insulated header, or built-up structural header will be used as structural requirements dictate (see Figure 17).

Figure 17. Headers Above Window and Door Openings. The type of header used above a window or door opening depends on the width of the opening and the structural loading above the opening. Follow the house plans carefully with the header details.

Top splines tie the wall panels together and provide a continuous solid surface to support the second-floor deck. They are secured into the routed grooves with nails or screws 8" o.c. through both the inner and outer waferboard skins. Top splines are usually installed in top of wall before wall section is tilted into place, but if panels are installed separately, then top splines go in only after all panels are in position.
In some houses, the walls may extend all the way from the first floor to the roof edge. Cutting and fitting these panels and installing roof-supporting beams will be covered in Section VI.

Figure 18. Installing Top Splines. Top splines are installed either before raising wall sections or after. Follow these nailing guidelines.

V. SECOND-FLOOR DECK

1. Installing Beams

As the first floor walls are going up, you must consider how supporting girders or beams will be installed. Depending on the house design and size, there may only be purlin beams to support roof panels, or there may be girders to support second-floor joists as well. With either type, installation is basically the same.

Beam Pockets at the Top of a Panel Wall

The beam ends are set into beam pockets in the wall panels, as shown in Figure 19. How these beam pockets are made and how beam ends are prepared and set into place depends on where the pockets are located in a panel. If the beam pocket is at the top of a wall panel – as is common with second-floor girders spanning the width of a house – the pocket is open at the panel top, as shown in Figure 20. The beam pocket should be precut and routed out to allow the beam end with special reinforcing scabs to be dropped down into it from above.

Figure 19. Beam Schematic. Load carrying beams may be called for in different locations, depending on the structural requirements of the house. Beams are set into beam pockets in the wall panels, which distribute the load into the wall panel skins.

If the beam pocket does not fall on a panel joint, then foam is routed out to a depth of 1½" on both sides and the bottom, as shown in Figure 20. 2 x 4" scabs are secured to the beam ends with two beads of construction adhesive and two offset rows of 16d nails 2" o.c. After the scabs are secured to the beam ends, apply a bead of expanding foam sealant into the routed grooves of the beam pocket and set the beam into position above. Once in place, nail through the waferboard skin into the scabs from both the inside and out with 8d nails 2" o.c. as shown in Figure 20. Also, nail through the outer waferboard skin into the end grain of the beam with 16d nails 2" o.c. in two staggered rows.

Figure 20. Beam Pocket at Top of Wall. Beams or girders to support the second-floor wall are usually set into beam pockets at the top of wall panels. If the pocket does not align with a wall panel seam, the foam is routed out on both sides and below for 2 x 4" scabs.

If the beam pocket aligns with a panel joint, as shown in Figure 21, it is not routed out for a 2 x 4" scab at the bottom, only on the two sides. The panel splines extend up to the bottom of the beam pocket and help support the beam. In some cases, heavier splines than the dual 5/8 x 3" plywood splines will be called for in panel joints under beam pockets. Such splines could be 2 x 4" or dual 2 x 4", depending on the structural loading conditions. To fully carry the load from the beam, you may need to use closer nail spacing than usual for securing panels into the spline(s). Be sure to follow Winter Panel Homes specifications carefully.

Figure 21. Beam Pocket at Panel Seam. If the beam pocket aligns with a panel seam, then splines should extend right up to the bottom of the beam. 2 x 4" scabs are only used on sides.

Beam Pocket in a Panel Face

Beam pockets will not always be at the top of a panel wall and open at the top. In some cases, the beam pockets will be located in a panel face. This situation may be found when a lower wall extends above the second-floor level on a long wall or when a second-floor girder is set into full-height gable-end wall panels. In either case, the inner waferboard skin is cut to the exact dimensions of the beam, as shown in Figure 22, and the foam removed.

Figure 22. Beam Pocket in Panel Face. If the beam cannot be dropped into the pocket from above, the beam is slid in from the front. 2 x 4" scabs are set into the panel before the beam is inserted and adhesive is applied to lock in the beam.

After the beam pocket is cut, the foam on the bottom of the pocket is routed out 1½" for a 2 x 4" scab. Apply a bead of expanding foam sealant into the routed groove and inset the 2 x 4". Nail through the waferboard from both sides into this scab with 16d nails 2" o.c. Then apply several beads of adhesive to the top surface of the scab just before inserting the beam end. Because the beam cannot be dropped into the pocket from above, it may be necessary to flex the wall out as the beam is inserted. Once in place, nail through the outer waferboard skin into the end grain of the beam with 16d nails 2" o.c. in two staggered rows to secure it in place. Apply expanding foam sealant on both sides and top of the beam to seal it into the panel.

2. Installing Joists

Joists for the second floor are installed in a much different manner than those for the first floor. Nail joist hangers into the top spline of the first floor wall panels as shown in Figure 23.

Figure 23. Setting Joist Hangers for Second-Floor Deck. The second-floor deck is "hung" from the continuous top splines that were set into the wall panels. Follow joist hanger manufacturer's instructions, and use nails supplied with the hangers.

Refer to the house plan to find the proper joist spacing. The joist spacing in different portions of the floor may vary depending on the span. The top of the installed joists should be at the same height as the top of the wall panels and top splines.
Hangers are secured both to the top of the spline with special joist hangers, and to the side (through the waferboard) with 16d nails. Use two 6d nails to connect the joist hanger to the bottom flange of the joist (one on each side). The joist hanger must be pushed up against the wall before installing these nails.
Doubled or tripled joists may be called for as girders and at stair or masonry penetrations. All multiple joist situations require the members to be glued and nailed together as per manufacturer's recommendations. "Laminated veneer lumber" joists are generally used for multiple joists. Joist hangers are secured to the face of the multiple joists as shown in Figure 24. Be sure to check plans and use the hangers specified; these may vary depending on structural considerations. Face-mounted hangers are generally called for when the carrying beam is of microlam construction.

Figure 24. Securing Joists to Girders or Joist Headers. Joist hangers are attached so multiple joists just as they are attached to top splines. Follow Winter Panel Homes plans carefully for joist hanger specifications. Make sure multiple joists are laminated together as per manufacturer's recommendations.

At gable ends and other places where wall panels extend up above the floor level, the edge joists (which run along wall parallel to the spanning joists) also need to be nailed and glued into the panels they rest against. This is done to prevent deflection of the floor next to the wall. Nail and glue the edge joists through the top and bottom of the joist flanges as shown in Figure 25. Use 12d nails (minimum) at a spacing of 12" o.c.

Figure 25. Securing Edge Joist to Sidewall. Glue and nail the edge joists to the wall panels at both the top and bottom to prevent deflection of the floor at the wall edge.

3. Installing Second-Floor Deck

With the second-floor joists in place, the subfloor is then installed. Use the subfloor layout from the second-floor framing plan (note starting point for placing subfloor sheets); ¾" tongue-and-groove waferboard is most common. As with the first-floor deck, lay the sheets of flooring perpendicular to the joists and flush with the outside of the wall or covering the edge joists (whichever situation exists).
Stagger the sheets as was done on the first floor. Place a bead of construction adhesive on the top of each joist before laying the subflooring, as shown in Figure 26. Only glue as much as you can cover within the setting time of the adhesive, as recommended by the manufacturer.

Figure 26. Laying Second-Floor Deck. The second-floor decking extends all the way to the outside of the wall panels to fully tie the walls together. Apply foam tape as shown, both on the top spline and joists. Once decking is installed, the bottom splines for upper walls are secured (use the same order of assembly as with the first floor). The bottom splines should be set ½" in from the outside edge of the decking.

4. Setting Bottom Spline for Upper Walls

With the floor deck in place, install a 2 x 4" bottom spline (bottom plate) on the long walls first as you did on the first-floor deck. It should be set ½" in from the outside of the decking so that the outside of the panels will be flush with the outside of the deck (see Figure 20). Secure the spline with adhesive and 16d nails or 3" screws, 6" a.c. in two staggered rows.

VI. INSTALLING SECOND-STORY WALL PANELS AND ROOF BEAMS

The same procedures are used here as for the first-story walls (see Section IV) although the tops of the panels are often specially cut to match the roof slope. Cap all wall panels with 2 x 4" top splines or beveled splines as specified. If an attic floor is called for at this location, install joist hangers as discussed for the second floor except that the joist hanger brackets will need to be bent so that the joist hangers can hang vertically (see Figure 31).
Gable-end wall panels often support laminated beams, which carry much of the roof load as shown in Figure 19. These beams are installed in exactly the same way as they were for second-floor girders, described previously. If supporting posts are called for in the plans, install them as specified.
There are generally three laminated beams installed in this manner: two purlin beams in mid-span and one ridge beam at the roof peak. There may be additional roof beams, depending on the house design, or there may not be a beam at the ridge. If a ridge beam is used, it is cut to match the roof slope on both sides with a 1" flat spot at the center on top. Purlins are cut to match the roof slope on one side with a 2" flat spot left on top.
For ease on the construction site, laminated roof beams should be set into place with a crane and one man at each gable end peak (Figure 27). The 2 x 4" scabs should be attached and all prep work should be done on the beam pockets before the beams are hoisted onto the roof. Refer to the framing plan.

Figure 27. Setting Roof Beams. Beams are most easily installed with a crane. Finish all the prep work (securing scabs, installing joist hangers, etc.) before the crane arrives to reduce idle crane time.

1. Install Temporary Braces Between Roof Beams

Before installing roof panels, the roof beams must be braced and supported to prevent movement or deflection during installation of roof panels. To prevent the centers of the roof beams from spreading or pushing in while under unequal pressure during installation of roof panels, you must install temporary bracing as shown in Figure 28. This brace has excellent strength both in compression and tension. Bracing should be spaced no more than 12' o.c. Once final interior framing is completed, the brace(s) can be removed.

Figure 28. Temporary Bracing for Purlin and Ridge Beams. Temporary bracing for purlins is required while roof panels are installed to prevent spreading or movement. Bracing is removed after interior partition walls have been framed in.

2. Install Custom-Cut Bottom Spline for Roof Panels

There are two different ways to secure roof panels at the eaves. Follow Winter Panel Homes plans carefully. With steep roof pitches (generally over 12:12), the bottom edges of roof panels may fit into specially cut bottom splines, which are secured to the attic subfloor as shown in Figure 29. Because this bottom spline is used for a panel installed at an angle, it is custom-cut for the precise roof angle in the plans.
Install the bottom roof spline so that the inner skins of the wall and roof panels line up. With a floor deck, the spline will be secured on top of the subflooring. The roof spline will be cantilevered over the wall panel somewhat, the amount dependent on the roof pitch.
Secure the bottom roof spline into the attic subfloor and/or top spline of the wall panels with construction adhesive and 16d nails 6" o.c. in two staggered rows.
If a roof with a large overhang or roof pitch less than 12:12 is needed, a different method is used for joining roof and wall panels at the eave. With this technique, shown in Figures 30 and 31, the roof panel rests fully on the top spline of the wall panel, which is cut at a bevel matching the pitch of the roof.

Figure 29. Installing Bottom Spline for Roof Panels. With roof pitches steeper than 12:12, a specially cut bottom spline is used at the eaves to secure the roof panels to the top floor deck or walls.

A specially cut 2 x 6" (with parallelogram cross-section) is used as the top spline for the wall panels (an identical custom-cut 2 x 6" is used as the end spline of a plumb-cut roof panel). To accept this top spline, the wall panels require special routing (they should arrive pre-routed). Secure roof panels with both long twist nails and adhesive. For 4½" roof panels, use 6" twist nails 12' o.c. set through the roof panel into the top spline. With 5½" roof panels, use 8" twist nails. Apply two beads of construction adhesive between the top spline and roof panel before nailing.
With cathedral ceiling applications, temporary blocks of wood can be used to hold the roof panels in place during installation, as shown in Figure 30. See the roof panel drawings or section views for locations of such blocks. Remove blocks after the assembly is completed and the glue has set.

Figure 30. Wall-Roof Intersection with Shallow Roofs. If a roof with a large overhang or roof pitch less than 12:12 is needed, the wall panels are cut at the roof angle, routed out and fitted with custom-cut top splines. Roof panels are then secured with adhesive and long twist nails.

When this detail is used in houses with an attic floor, the joist hangers will be installed as shown in Figure 31. The top flange of each joist hanger will have been bent to match the roof angle and nailed to the top wall spline. The attic subfloor and finish floor cannot extend all the way to the wall, but that will not matter since the floor will not be loaded here anyway.

Figure 31. Attic Joist and Floor Detail with Shallow Slope Roofs. Bend the top flange of joist hangers to fit over the angled top spline on the wall panels and nail in place. The attic floor will extend above the wall-roof intersection slightly.

3. Lifting Panels Onto the Roof

Panels should be lifted onto the roof with a crane as shown in Figure 32. Lifting panels up by hand or with hand winches is not recommended. A crane can set panels on the roof quickly, accurately and safely.

Figure 32. Hoisting Panels Onto Roof With a Crane. Be sure to follow accepted safety practices when lifting panels onto the roof. Never let anyone get underneath the panel as it is being lifted.

To lift panels onto the roof, drill a hole through each panel, offset slightly from the center (toward the top end of the panel and somewhat to the side), and insert an eye bolt, as shown in Figure 32. The bolt should penetrate a section of 2 x 6" extending the width of the panel, and be secured on the bottom with a washer and nut. Use a 5/16" or larger eye bolt. It is very important to note that the bolt or attachment may fail. Under no circumstances should anyone get underneath a panel being hoisted onto a roof!
Splines are pushed into the panel grooves after the panels have been formed and butted together. With this technique, slide the splines in soon after joining panels, before the foam has begun to harden.

4. Securing the First Roof Panel

Frequently, there will be two courses of panels on each side of the roof. The lower course will span from the eave to the purlin beam, and the upper course will span from the purlin to the ridge beam (on smaller roofs, single panels will span the whole roof slope). Set all the lower panels first, on both sides of the roof. Start at one end and move along it, securing panels one by one.
The first panel, which will have a 2 x 4" rout in the outer and lower edges, is lined up with the gable end wall, either overhanging or flush as called for in the plans (Figure 33). Apply two beads of adhesive to the top splines of the gabled end and beveled side walls and one bead on the purlin bevel. Secure the panel with 6" twist nails 12" o.c. as shown in the illustration. When thicker panels are used for the roof, use nails or screws at least 2" longer than the panel thickness.

Figure 33. Installing Edge Roof Panel. Follow the plans carefully to determine the proper amount of overhang, if any. Apply two beads of adhesive and nail roof panel to the wall panel as shown.

Where the top edge of the panel will rest on the purlin, install twist nails 12" o.c. But do not set the nails tightly along the top edge of the panel until all the panels in the course are in place and the plywood splines installed. The top edge of the panel should only have one routed groove (next to the outer waferboard skin) where a single 5/8 x 3" spline will be used to join the panels. Because both upper and lower panels will be nailed into the purlin at this joint, only a single spline is required between them.
At the bottom of the roof panel, the method of attachment depends on how the framing was done (refer back to Figures 29, 30 and 31). If the bottom of the roof panel fits into a bottom roof spline, attach this beveled 2 x 4" spline to the deck or top wall spline with 16d nails at 6" o.c. in two staggered rows with two beads of adhesive. Nail through the outer waferboard skin into both the bottom roof spline and top wall spline using 16d nails 6" o.c. as shown in Figure 34. If possible, also nail through the inner waferboard skin into the bottom spline (from inside the house) with 6d nails 6" o.c. This may not be possible if there is a floor at the wall-roof intersection (predominantly used for the bow cape).

Figure 34. Securing First Roof Panel at Eave. Attachment to already installed bottom spline in steep roofs (over 12:12) is shown. If there is an attic floor, you may not be able to nail the bottom waferboard skin into the spline. For shallow roofs, see Figures 30 and 31.

Figure 35. Joining Roof Panels with 5/8" x 3" Splines. When joining panels, apply a bead of foam sealant between the splines after nailing is complete.

If the roof panels extend down over wall panels with top splines cut at an angle as shown in Figures 30 and 31, secure the roof panels with two beads of adhesive and 6" or 8" twist nails 12" o.c. The nails extend through the roof panel and into the top spline in the wall panel. Do not nail off the top edge of the panel unless it runs all the way to the ridge. This will make it easier to join the upper row of panels to this first row, before nailing them both to the purlin.

5. Installing Other Roof Panels

Subsequent panels are installed in just the same manner. Install the 5/8 x 3" splines into the groove in the first panel.
Panels are drawn tightly together with a come-along or ratcheting truck tie-down strap. Pull the panels together before securing them to the purlins, wall panels or splines at the joints. Follow this procedure with each roof panel being installed.
Secure the two panels together from both above and below, as shown in the illustration, making sure the waferboard skins abut tightly. As each panel is joined with splines to the previous one and nailed into the purlin and bottom spline, go back and sink the nails that haven?t been fully set in the previous panel.
The last panel along the side of the roof will have a 2 x 4" set into the outer edge. It will either end flush with the gable or overlap, depending on the house design
Once a full course on one side of the roof is in place, install 5/8 x 3" splines where these panels will abut the upper course of panels (over the purlins). The spline fits into the groove next to the outer waferboard skin at the top edge of each panel.
Next, begin installing the second course of panels in just the same manner, spanning from purlin to ridge, as shown in Figure 36. At the bottom edge of the second course, make sure the panels fit into the plywood splines and secure to the purlin with twist nails 12" o.c. As panels in the upper course are installed, remember to go back and tightly set the top of the lower course of panels into the purlin.

	Figure 36. Installing Second Course of Roof Panels. After the bottom course of panels is in place, install the second course from the purlin to the ridge beam. Panels are joined with a single plywood spline as well as twist nails into the purlin. Apply foam sealant after joining panels.
	Figure 37. Nailing Full-Span Purlin into Purlin. With full panels spanning from eave to ridge, apply adhesive on the purlin and space the nails 12" o.c.

The top edge of each panel in the uppermost course is usually cut for the proper roof angle. A bead of adhesive should be applied along the ridge beam and panels installed as shown in Figure 38. The panels should be placed to rest on the ridge beam and purlin, then pulled together with the adjacent panel in the upper course (this double spline joint must be foamed after closure). Nail through the panel into the beam with 6" galvanized twist nails every 12" along the ridge (use 8" nails for thick panels). Make sure the bottom of the miter cut aligns with the center line of the ridge beam to ensure a tight fit when the opposite roof panel is installed.

Figure 38. Securing Panels at Ridge. Roof panels are miter cut at the ridge and secured with twist nails 12" o.c.

In some cases, especially for smaller roofs, single panels will span the full roof from eave to ridge. In this case, the panels will simply be nailed into the purlins at the mid-point, as shown in Figure 37, and no horizontal spline joint will be required. Apply a bead of adhesive on the purlin, as shown, and use 6" galvanized twist nails 12" o.c.
The top edge of each panel in the uppermost course is usually cut for the proper roof angle. A bead of adhesive should be applied along the ridge beam and panels installed as shown in Figure 38. The panels should be placed to rest on the ridge beam and purlin, then pulled together with the adjacent panel in the upper course (this double spline joint must be foamed after closure). Nail through the panel into the beam with 6" galvanized twist nails every 12" along the ridge (use 8" nails for thick panels). Make sure the bottom of the miter cut aligns with the center line of the ridge beam to ensure a tight fit when the opposite roof panel is installed.
Alternatively, you can leave an intentional gap and fill it after panels on both sides of the roof are installed. Use foam sealant or caulk, depending on the size of the gap.
Moisture will not affect the structural properties of the waferboard, but it will cause the edges to swell, creating an uneven roof surface.
In some cases, there will be no ridge beam, so roof panels will have to meet at the peak without support. In this case, the panels are joined at the peak as shown in Figure 39. Along one side of the roof, specially cut 2 x 4" splines are inserted into routed grooves at the top edge of the panels, foamed, and nailed into place from above and below. Beveled splines for the other roof side are attached to those of the first side with two rows of adhesive and 16d nails at 6" o.c. in two staggered rows. When the final roof panels are installed, the upper routed edge (with bead of foam) must first engage the beveled plate at the ridge. The panel bottom must pivot downward so that the top groove fits around the ridge spline and the bottom of the panel rests on the purlin (bead of adhesive on purlin, foam sealant in foaming groove). The panel is now pulled sideways, to close the joint (foamed) with the adjacent panel. A 4? section of plywood spline is hammered into the seam over the purlin. Attachment to purlin is as before; 12" o.c. for each panel with 6" or 8" nails, depending on panel thickness.

Figure 39. Joining Panels at Ridge Without Ridge Beam. Specially cut splines are inserted into the top edges of panels. Once these splines have been installed, the panels are joined with adhesive and 16d nails, angled through the waferboard and into the splines.

6. Eave Details

Several different details are used with Winter Panel Homes. Eave detailing is up to the builder. The roof pitch and roof/wall joint detail govern to some extent the eave detail, but there is considerable flexibility in design. Several common eave details are shown in Figure 40. Details using both the extended outer skin and the full overlap techniques are shown (refer back to Figures 29 and 30).

Figure 40. Eave Details. Eave detailing is up to the builder. As can be seen, there is considerable design flexibility.

7. Gable End Overhang and Rake Details

As discussed previously and shown in Figure 33, roof panels may either overhang the wall or be finished flush at gable ends. Figure 40 shows the most common finishing details with both flush rakes and gable end overhangs. To simplify the installation of siding, the rake board can be held out ¾" with blocking, or notched. When the roof panels end flush with the wall panels, a simple rake such as that shown in Figure 41a can be used. The roof panel is cut flush with the wall panel, a 2 x 4" is inset into the roof panel edge, and two rake boards are nailed on as shown.
With an overhang, the detail is similar, except that the exposed section of panel is sheathed with a soffit and the rake boards are a little different, as shown in Figure 41b. A somewhat more ornate rake detail, such as that shown in Figure 41c, can be made by attaching a rake extension to the edge of the roof panel.

Figure 41. Rake Details. Flush and overhanging gable-end rake details are shown. As with eaves, you have considerable flexibility in design.

8. Roof Penetrations

Openings for roof windows and skylights should be precut when the panels arrive at your site. Penetrations for chimneys and vents are typically cut later by the mason or plumber, after the house has been fully closed in. For smaller penetrations (within one panel), 2 x 4" framing may already be inset into the routed edges of the opening. For larger openings, these 2 x 4"s will have to be installed after the panels are set in place on the roof since they will extend into more than one panel.
If any additional roof openings are to be incorporated into the house, the openings can be cut and routed as described in the Appendix. If you plan on adding roof openings, make sure the structural integrity of the roof will not be affected. Consult Winter Panel if uncertain.

VII. FITTING WINDOWS AND DOORS

Follow manufacturer?s instructions when installing windows and doors. Generally, window units will be shimmed from the inside, then nailed from the outside through the mounting flange into the outer skin and 2 x 4". Depending on the window design in the sill area, it may be desirable to shim the bottom of the window up slightly into the center of the opening to provide a gap for foaming below the sill. Once secured in place, the window installation is completed by foaming the cavity between the window frame and rough opening. The low-expanding foam necessary is provided with the shell package. Do not use high-expanding foam in this application. It is important not to fill the cavity all the way, as the expanding foam may make the window difficult to open. Set the foam nozzle ¾" into the cavity and apply a heavy bead of foam that does not totally fill the cavity, but continuously "welds" the window unit to the opening. The foam provides extremely good adhesion and will provide most of the holding power. If you find the window is difficult to open after the foam cures, you can make a kerf through the foam with a handsaw to relieve pressure.
Door installation is similar to that of windows. Follow manufacturer?s installation instructions for plumbing, shimming, caulking and nailing. Foaming should be done as with windows.

VIII. FINISHING HOUSE EXTERIOR

Installation of exterior siding and roofing are the responsibilities of the builder. There are a number of important considerations to keep in mind, however. Before installing exterior wall siding over Structurewall panels, inspect all joints. If any cracks or gaps are found, seal them with a suitable exterior grade caulk or foam sealant.
Horizontal siding, such as clapboards, may be installed directly over the waferboard surface of panels. Felt is not recommended under the siding because it prevents breathing, but an air barrier such as Tyvek or rosin paper may be used, if desired. Do not nail horizontal siding directly into the wall splines because of possible buckling problems. Keep at least 6" away from splines when nailing on the siding. Number 1 or clear grade siding is recommended to cut down on possible warping or cupping.
Care must be taken with board-and-batten siding. Warping or buckling of boards may be a problem, especially with wider boards. There are a number of techniques that can be used. One technique is to leave a small gap between boards and attach battens with screws through the gaps between boards. The boards are allowed to "float." With wide boards, cupping can be reduced by applying a bead of adhesive along the center of the board. Alternatively, board-and-batten siding can be applied over horizontal strapping and nailed on in a conventional manner.
Winter Panel Homes recommends the use of a semi-transparent or solid color stain on the exterior siding. Because of the solid wall construction, moisture can sometimes build up between the outside of the panels and siding, causing paint to blister.
In finishing stresskin roofs, with asphalt or fiberglass shingles a "cold roof" is recommended as shown in Figure 45. A typical cold roof consists of 1x3 strapping running from eve to ridge 16" o.c. with another layer of sheathing applied on top of that. With a typical soffit and ridge vent, cold air is allowed to flow under the shingles and reduce excessive shingle temperatures when exposed to direct sunlight.
Roofing should be done according to the manufacturer?s instructions. Use of textured shingles may be a good idea because they will hide slight variations in the roof surface, swollen panel edges and other imperfections.
Rigid shingles, such as wood, tile or slate should be applied over horizontal strapping according to the manufacturer?s instructions.

IX. FINISHING HOUSE INTERIOR

Interior partition walls and finishing are the responsibility of the builder. Standard framing practices are recommended. Interior stud walls are secured to the wall panels with construction adhesive and screws. Apply two beads of adhesive and use 2¼" to 2½" screws o.c. in staggered rows.
Before applying drywall to the interior of the house, observe the areas where the exterior panels intersect. Any gaps larger than ¼" should be foamed, and all roof/wall panel and wall corner seams should be caulked with silicon caulk. Check window openings, especially skylights, to be certain that they are tightly sealed. You may choose to use either ½" or 5/8" drywall. With the panels installed vertically, run sheets horizontally where possible. This avoids possible separation of drywall joints. To attach drywall to the panels, use 1" to 1¼" drywall screws or ring-shank nails spaced 8" o.c. around the perimeter and 12" o.c. elsewhere. Drywall adhesive is recommended but not required. It will improve the "solid" feeling of the wall. Apply beads of adhesive along the perimeter and 12" o.c. over the rest of the bonding area.

X. PLUMBING AND WIRING

Wiring a Winter Panel Home requires some specialized techniques. Information on wiring details is available from Winter Panel.

XI. CABINET ATTACHMENT

Cabinets are generally attached by screwing them directly into stresskin walls. For optimal strength, cabinets should be hung before exterior walls have been drywalled. Lightweight cabinets can be installed after the drywall is up. Use the proper length screws to penetrate through the cabinet backs (and drywall, if it has been installed) and into the waferboard usually 1½".
Because the waferboard is continuous, screws can be placed closer than 16" to achieve adequate strength; with a spacing of 6 to 8" recommended. Even closer spacing and adhesive may be necessary, or toggle bolts can be used through the inner panel skin for heavy cabinets.
Another alternative for full-height cabinets is to secure them both to the wall as described above, and also into the ceiling joists. This will only work for cabinets that extend up to the ceiling.

APPENDIX: Cutting and Routing Panels

Structurewall panels can be cut with large-diameter circular saws. Winter Panel offers a 16" saw with carbide blade for sale or rent that works very well with most cuts. This saw has a 6 3/16" depth of cut at 90 degrees and 4 3/16" at 45 degrees. Miter cuts less than 50 degrees will require finishing with a handsaw. A handsaw may also be required for finishing corner cuts around windows and doors.
Routing of panel edges is required wherever spline joints are to be used, and where 2 x 4"s will be inset for reinforcement at wall corners, door and window openings, roof edges and various other locations described in this manual. For a dual 5/8 x 3" plywood spline joint, two parallel grooves are cut in the foam next to the inner and outer skins to a depth of 1½". A notch in the foam between the spline grooves is also cut to facilitate placing the foam sealant when the panels are joined together. A 2 x 4" spline joint is made by making a full-width rout ¾" deep in both panels to be joined. For a fully inset 2 x 4" (around door and window openings, at wall corners, etc.), 1½" of foam is routed out from the panel edge.
Router heads with cutting blades for these different types of routs are available for rent or purchase from Winter Panel Homes. Always rout the panels before setting them on the frame. Try to do your routing in a clear area with plenty of room to maneuver. Wear goggles and a dust mask for safety. Further information on cutting and routing panels is available from Winter Panel.